The first boat of the morning

The first public ferry leaves Lezzeno at 6:40. In September it crosses in the half-light, and for twenty minutes there is no one else on the water.

How to do it

Ask for a flask of coffee at the door the night before. The landing stage is four minutes’ walk along the lake path, and tickets can be bought on board.

The best seat is on the open deck at the back. Sit on the left for the sunrise over the mountains.

Take the boat as far as Varenna, walk the shore for an hour and come back for a late breakfast. You will have seen the lake at its quietest.